Finishing:
Most resins and plastics can be shaped and finished
similarly to metal.
Epoxy resins are the softest resin and I don’t recommend
doing much with them post-pour. Due to the softer surface, even with the best
precautions, the surface will not be as shiny as it is when it has been left
alone. If finishing is required on epoxy resins, I recommend doing the
finishing, and then recoating the top or affected areas with another thin layer
of epoxy.
Polyurethane resins are much harder and can have quite a bit
of work done to them post-pour.
To file:
Use a coarser cut file since the resin filings will tend to
clog finer cut files. Wax working files are also useful for filing resin. Make
sure to either use files that you have specifically designated for resin work,
or clean the files extremely well afterwards. Using files designated for resin
is the best option as then you don’t need to worry about getting metal shaving
in your resin or resin shavings in your wax.
To drill/bur:
Make sure to go slowly and to keep the drill bit and/or burs
cool. If the burs get hot, they melt the plastic, which does damage both to the
bur and to your piece.
To sand:
Work wet. Either under running water, or by dipping the
piece repeatedly and often into water. Water helps to remove any grit, dirt,
and debris as it come off the piece so that it doesn’t get imbedded into the
plastic giving it a cloudy look.
The Spectrum sandpapers are great for working with resins,
as they are an open mash rather than a coated sheet and move the debris away
quicker.
To polish:
Zam is the best compound to polish plastics with. There are
several other products out there that aren’t a rouge-like compound that work,
but in my opinion ZAM works the best.
Zam is used just like any other compound on the polishing
machine. Wheels should be designated as Zam/plastics only.
You can also sandblast polyurethane plastics.
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